When it comes to men’s fashion, the suit is a timeless staple that exudes elegance and sophistication. However, not all suits are created equal. Two of the most prominent suit styles in the world are Italian and British, each with its own unique characteristics and charm. In this article, we’ll dive deep into the world of Italian and British suits, focusing on two renowned Italian brands: Kiton and Cesare Attolini.
The Italian Suit Style
Kiton: The Epitome of Neapolitan Tailoring
Kiton is a luxury Italian fashion house that embodies the essence of Neapolitan tailoring. Founded in 1968 by Ciro Paone, Kiton has become synonymous with exceptional craftsmanship, attention to detail, and the use of the finest materials.
| Kiton Suit Characteristics | Description |
| Fabric | Kiton uses only the highest quality fabrics, such as Super 180s wool, cashmere, and silk. |
| Fit | Kiton suits are known for their soft, unstructured shoulders and a close-fitting silhouette that accentuates the body’s natural lines. |
| Construction | Each Kiton suit is handmade by skilled artisans, requiring up to 25 hours of labor. |
| Details | Kiton suits feature handpicked stitching, functional buttonholes, and a signature red coral logo on the lapel. |
Cesare Attolini: The Art of Neapolitan Style
Cesare Attolini is another renowned Italian suit brand that embodies the essence of Neapolitan style. Founded in the 1930s by Cesare Attolini, the brand has been passed down through generations, maintaining its commitment to exceptional craftsmanship and timeless elegance.
| Cesare Attolini Suit Characteristics | Description |
| Fabric | Cesare Attolini uses only the finest fabrics, such as Super 150s wool, cashmere, and silk. |
| Fit | Cesare Attolini suits are known for their soft, unstructured shoulders and a slightly looser fit compared to Kiton. |
| Construction | Each Cesare Attolini suit is handmade by skilled artisans, requiring up to 30 hours of labor. |
| Details | Cesare Attolini suits feature hand-sewn buttonholes, a signature “”spalla camicia”” (shirt shoulder), and a unique lapel shape. |
The British Suit Style
Savile Row: The Birthplace of British Tailoring
Savile Row is a street in London that has been synonymous with British tailoring for over 200 years. The area is home to numerous bespoke tailoring houses that have dressed royalty, celebrities, and discerning gentlemen from around the world.
| Savile Row Suit Characteristics | Description |
| Fabric | Savile Row tailors use high-quality British fabrics, such as worsted wool and tweed. |
| Fit | British suits are known for their structured shoulders, a more relaxed fit through the chest and waist, and a slightly longer jacket length. |
| Construction | Savile Row suits are often made using a full canvas construction, which provides a more structured and durable garment. |
| Details | British suits feature a higher armhole, a suppressed waist, and a more conservative overall appearance. |
The Difference Between Italian and British Suit Styles
While both Italian and British suits are considered high-end and fashionable, there are some key differences between the two styles:
| Characteristic | Italian Suits | British Suits |
| Fabric | Lightweight, luxurious fabrics like Super 180s wool, cashmere, and silk | Heavier, more durable fabrics like worsted wool and tweed |
| Fit | Soft, unstructured shoulders and a close-fitting silhouette | Structured shoulders, a more relaxed fit, and a longer jacket length |
| Construction | Often made with a half-canvas or unstructured construction | Typically made with a full canvas construction for added structure |
| Details | More adventurous colors and patterns, with unique details like the “”spalla camicia”” | Conservative colors and patterns, with a focus on clean lines and timeless style |
Choosing the Right Suit Style for You
When deciding between an Italian or British suit style, there are several factors to consider:
Body Type
Your body type can play a significant role in determining which suit style will look best on you. If you have a slimmer build, an Italian suit with its close-fitting silhouette may be more flattering. On the other hand, if you have a larger or more muscular frame, a British suit with its more relaxed fit may be more comfortable and accommodating.
Personal Style
Your personal style should also be taken into account when choosing between an Italian or British suit. If you prefer a more fashion-forward, contemporary look, an Italian suit may be the way to go. If you lean towards a more classic, timeless aesthetic, a British suit may be a better choice.
Occasion
The occasion for which you’ll be wearing the suit can also influence your decision. Italian suits, with their lightweight fabrics and more adventurous colors and patterns, may be better suited for less formal events or warmer climates. British suits, with their heavier fabrics and more conservative appearance, are often the preferred choice for more formal occasions or cooler weather.
Budget
Finally, your budget may play a role in determining which suit style you choose. While both Italian and British suits can be expensive, bespoke Savile Row suits often come with a higher price tag due to the time-intensive, handmade process and the use of premium British fabrics.
The Best of Both Worlds
While Italian and British suit styles have their distinct characteristics, it’s possible to find a happy medium that incorporates elements of both. Some Italian brands, like Kiton and Cesare Attolini, have begun to offer suits with a slightly more structured shoulder and a fuller chest, taking inspiration from the British style.
Similarly, some British tailors have started to experiment with lighter fabrics and more contemporary cuts, borrowing from the Italian aesthetic. This fusion of styles allows men to enjoy the best of both worlds, creating a suit that is both fashionable and timeless.
The Importance of Fit
Regardless of whether you choose an Italian or British suit style, the most crucial aspect of any suit is its fit. A well-fitted suit can make you look and feel confident, while an ill-fitting suit can detract from your overall appearance.
When shopping for a suit, be sure to pay attention to the following key areas:
- Shoulders: The suit jacket should sit smoothly across your shoulders, without any bunching or gaps.
- Chest: The jacket should be snug but not tight across the chest, allowing for ease of movement.
- Waist: The jacket should be tailored to follow the contours of your waist, creating a streamlined silhouette.
- Length: The jacket should fall just below the buttocks, and the sleeves should allow for about half an inch of shirt cuff to show.
- Trousers: The trousers should sit comfortably on your waist, without sagging or pulling, and should have a clean, unbroken line from hip to ankle.
If you’re investing in a high-end Italian or British suit, it’s worth taking the time to have it properly tailored to your body. Many luxury brands, including Kiton and Cesare Attolini, offer bespoke or made-to-measure services, ensuring that your suit fits you perfectly.
Caring for Your Suit
Once you’ve found the perfect Italian or British suit, it’s essential to care for it properly to ensure its longevity. Here are a few tips for maintaining your suit:
- Brush your suit regularly with a soft-bristled garment brush to remove dirt and dust.
- Hang your suit on a sturdy wooden hanger when not in use to help maintain its shape.
- Avoid over-cleaning your suit, as this can damage the fibers. Instead, spot-clean as needed and have it professionally dry cleaned once or twice a year.
- Store your suit in a breathable garment bag when not in use to protect it from dust and moths.
By following these simple care instructions, you can keep your Italian or British suit looking its best for years to come.
Conclusion
In the end, the choice between an Italian or British suit style comes down to personal preference, body type, occasion, and budget. Both styles have their unique characteristics and appeal, and both can make you look and feel your best when fitted properly.
Whether you opt for the soft, unstructured elegance of a Kiton or Cesare Attolini suit, or the structured, timeless appeal of a Savile Row creation, remember that the key to pulling off any suit is confidence. When you feel good in what you’re wearing, it shows in your demeanor and overall appearance.
So, take the time to explore both Italian and British suit styles, try on different fits and fabrics, and find the one that makes you feel like the best version of yourself. With the right suit and the right attitude, you’ll be ready to take on the world in style.
