In the heart of South Devon, nestled in the charming village of South Pool, on a tidal creek close to Salcombe, sits the Millbrook Inn, a cosy pub with a huge heart that has become synonymous with incredible food, thanks to the creative genius of its fire-wielding head chef, Iain Dawson.Walk through the door and you’re hit with the delicious whiff of wood smoke infused with the smell of food that unfurls and envelops and that’s what the Millbrook is all about – its a place where fire and flavour infuse while warmth and tradition pervade.
The Millbrook Inn has long been a bucket list destination, but recent changes have elevated it to something truly special. In 2021, the pub was acquired by the Owens family, owners of Fowlescombe Farm, a 500-acre organic farm nearby. This farm supplies all the slow-grown meat, vegetables, and herbs to the Millbrook Inn’s kitchen, creating a farm-to-table experience. This year it has opened two stunning cottages Land and Sea, opposite the pub, giving people the opportunity to stay in the village and dine at the Millbrook.
Iain, 33, and originally from Canada, brings a flamboyant and bold approach to his cooking, quite distinct from his early days at Heston Blumenthal’s Hind’s Head in Bray. He embraces the unpredictability of cooking with fire, infusing tradition and simplicity into every dish, all while using ingredients sourced from the nearby farm, Fowlescombe.
Iain’s secret weapon is the Josper grill, renowned in the world of charcoal gastronomy, which he wields with the same mastery as his skills at butchery. The searing heat of the grill creates a caramelised crust on the meat, resulting in unique and unforgettable flavours. And then he adds his standout flair, elevating the dishes with handfuls of home grown herbs like oregano, thyme, basil and chives and adding vegetable sides, that could be a meal in themselves.
Iain’s approach to cooking is deeply rooted in his desire to revive old culinary traditions, focusing on honest, uncomplicated food that respects the animal and the environment. His food philosophy draws inspiration from renowned Australian chef Lennox Hastie, renowned for his live fire and wood-fired cooking, and Dan Barber’s influential book, “The Third Plate,” which champions sustainability and responsible food practices.
At the Millbrook Inn, menus are dictated by the farm’s offerings and whatever comes through the door, with leftover vegetables returned to the farm for composting. This commitment to sustainability and quality shines through in every dish.
This is a proper English pub, that’s stood the test of time, where delicious food that’s served with confidence is a shining beacon. Tiny in size, but huge in its reputation, not only is it in one of the most idyllic locations in the entire UK but its food is shouting loud beyond the patchwork fields, with wood fire at its heart.
And yet despite its burgeoning reputation, the Millbrook Inn will always remain true to its core as a place for locals, and anyone else who happens upon South Pool, to gather. As a new chapter opens for Millbrook Inn that promises to surpass its already cemented reputation, with stunning places to stay its new proposition, this a place where astonishing food will always be its beating heart.
Iain’s defining dish is Smoked pastrami-style short ribs, with spiced celeriac puree infused with blade mace, coriander, and thyme. This is served with a classic sauce chasseur and grilled sweetheart cabbage.
According to Iain, the preparation for this dish is a laborious process and he says you have to be fully invested in the process to truly enjoy making it but the effort is worth it. He believes you can taste the difference when a dish has been crafted with this love and dedication.
The Millbrook Inn, South Pool, South Devon
