In the first quarter of 2024, the European Union witnessed a dramatic surge in olive oil fraud and mislabelling cases, with 50 potential incidents compared to just 15 during the same period in 2018. This increase, driven by soaring olive oil prices that have more than doubled since 2018, underscores a severe and growing crisis. Factors such as climate change have significantly impacted production, making olive oil a prime target for fraudulent activities. These activities range from contamination with unauthorized substances to adulteration with cheaper oils and false labelling of origin or quality. While the European Commission views the rise in reported cases as a sign of improved vigilance and cooperation among member states, this perspective overlooks the deeper issue: climate-driven inflation is fuelling these fraudulent practices, making high-value commodities like olive oil more attractive to fraudsters.
Incident reports revealed oils contaminated with unauthorized substances such as pesticides and mineral oils, and even one case where glass fragments were found. Adulteration cases included extra virgin olive oil mixed with inferior oils, or lower quality oils labelled as higher-grade extra virgin. Misleading origin labelling was also prevalent. For example, Germany reported a case where “lampante oil,” unfit for consumption without further refining, was marketed as “extra virgin olive oil” from Israel. Similarly, olive oil from Syria, via the Netherlands, was misleadingly labelled, illustrating the complexity and scope of the fraud.
This rise in olive oil fraud comes amid a broader crisis in the olive oil market. Extreme weather conditions, driven by global heating, have devastated olive crops, particularly in Spain, which produced more than half the world’s olive oil in 2018-19. With production levels expected to fall to 2.4 million tonnes in 2023-24, down 27% from 2018-19, prices have surged. In November 2023, 100 kilos of extra virgin olive oil from Jaén, Spain, cost €787, up from €262.50 five years earlier. This dramatic price increase has made olive oil a lucrative target for fraudsters.
Budget cuts have consequences
Amid this alarming trend, Members of the European Parliament (MEPs) have criticized the reduction in EU support for agricultural product promotion in the 2025 budget. Despite reassurances from the European Commission about a possible budget rectification in the autumn, the first draft opinion, signed by Daniel Buda, expresses regret over the decreased Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) funding and calls for increased financial support. The cut of €440 million from the CAP budget for 2025-2027 includes a reduction of €136 million for 2025, directly affecting promotion programs and Commission-managed expenditure. MEPs have emphasized the negative impact on internationalizing agricultural activities and promoting products with protected designations of origin.
Misalignment of priorities
Moreover, the discussions in Brussels around the harmonization of front-of-pack (FOP) labelling further highlight the misalignment of policy priorities. The conversation around FOP labelling, particularly Nutri-Score, seems misplaced amid larger, more pressing policy issues. Nutri-Score, a traffic-light-style system that rates the healthiness of packaged foods, has faced significant criticism. Research published in PharmaNutrition has highlighted potential biases in studies favouring Nutri-Score, many of which were linked to its developers.
Portugal’s recent reversal on adopting Nutri-Score exemplifies the growing discontent. The new government raised concerns about the previous administration’s decision, citing a lack of consultation with national food authorities and potential consumer confusion. The Portuguese Directorate-General for Food and Veterinary (DGAV) expressed reservations about Nutri-Score, suggesting that it might misrepresent the nutritional value of traditional Portuguese foods. This scepticism is shared by other member states wary of oversimplified nutritional labels.
Unfortunately, Nutri-Score fails to capture the complexities of nutrition and can mislead consumers. For instance, Nutri-Score tends to favour processed foods over raw, traditional ones, leading to misleading classifications. Olive oil, for example, is rated poorly when assessed per 100 grams—a quantity far exceeding normal consumption. Similarly, traditional foods like Roquefort cheese receive negative scores, prompting backlash from regions whose culinary heritage is an integral part of their identity.
Regional opposition
Carole Delga, President of the Occitanie region in France, recently called for the exclusion of Nutri-Score, arguing that the system inaccurately assesses traditional products like olive oil and Roquefort cheese. Delga’s criticisms underscore a broader issue: Nutri-Score tends to favour processed foods over raw, traditional ones, leading to misleading classifications.
The fixation on Nutri-Score distracts from more substantial issues related to food sustainability and heritage. Individual Member States continue to reject Nutri-Score, favouring more nuanced approaches that respect their culinary traditions and provide clearer guidance to consumers. Nutri-Score neatly encapsulates a troubling disconnect from the diverse culinary and cultural contexts of its member states.
Emphasizing food sovereignty: balancing tradition and innovation
Moreover, the recent statements by French Minister of Agriculture Marc Fesneau further emphasize the strategic importance of food sovereignty. In light of global geopolitical tensions and environmental concerns, Europe must prioritize reducing dependency on imports and ensuring self-sufficiency in food production. Fesneau’s remarks highlight the need for Europe to adopt a more strategic approach to food policy, one that balances innovation with the preservation of traditional agricultural practices.
The EU must recognize that effective food policy requires balancing innovation with tradition and addressing the real concerns of member states. The pressing issues of food sustainability and heritage cannot be ignored. As Europe navigates these complexities, a more holistic approach that considers the diverse culinary practices and environmental needs of its member states will be essential for fostering a sustainable and culturally rich future of food.
Ultimately, Brussels must recognize that food has reached a critical juncture. As the geopolitics of food become increasingly complex, now is not the time to render the food we have more confusing to consumers. Instead, it is a time for thoughtful, strategic policymaking that honours the importance of our farmers, preserves our culinary heritage, and ensures the sustainability of our food systems for future generations.
The surge in olive oil fraud is a stark reminder of the challenges the EU faces in ensuring food integrity amidst economic and environmental pressures. As prices continue to rise due to climate impacts, fraudulent activities are likely to increase, undermining consumer trust and damaging the market for genuine producers. It is imperative that the EU not only reassesses its budget cuts but also enhances its vigilance and enforcement mechanisms to combat fraud effectively. By prioritizing the protection of high-value commodities like olive oil, the EU can uphold both its cultural heritage and economic stability, demonstrating a commitment to quality and authenticity that consumers and producers alike can rely on.
